How to Differentiate between Genuine and Imitation Pearls
Pearls come in many shapes and sizes whether they are real or not, and it can be hard to distinguish between the genuine article or a fake. Even amongst genuine pearls there are many different classes of both natural and cultured varieties, all with their own different properties and all valued very differently as pearl jewellery. Before buying any pearls it’s important that you know what you’re getting, so here are a few ways to help differentiate between a genuine pearl and a fake:
The Tooth Test
It’s said that if you rub a pearl against the biting edge of your front teeth, the texture of the surface will tell you whether or not it is genuine. Genuine pearls usually have a rougher, more irregular texture whereas fakes are glassy and perfectly smooth. This isn’t really the most reliable method of testing, as fakes are often made to appear completely genuine and cultured pearls in particular can often be very smooth, especially if they are dyed.
The Sun Test
Another indicator is to take the pearls into full daylight and look closely at the lustre, or iridescence, that you see on the surface. Apart from extremely unusual and rare specimens, real pearls hardly ever appear perfectly matched in full daylight and have clear differences in shine, iridescence and colour.
Surface Magnification
Don’t underestimate the power of a magnifying glass – a closeup look at the pearl earrings, necklace or brooch can tell you a lot, and is one of the most effective ways of distinguishing between genuine and fake pearls. Genuine pearls are covered in tiny, almost indistinguishable lines, giving them an almost scaly look under magnification. It also helps to look closely at the drill holes in the pearl, which are normally as small as possible in a real pearl as larger holes devalue the gem. The holes are usually drilled from both ends and meet in the middle, making the passage narrower at the centre of the pearl.
Shape
One of the most obvious ways to identify real pearl sets is to look closely at the shape of each pearl and whether or not they are close to being identical – real pearls are hardly ever perfectly round, and it is almost unheard of to find a whole string of pearls of exactly the same size, shape and weight. Real pearls that are regular in this way are extremely expensive, or they are more than likely imitations.
X-Ray
The best way to be absolutely positive of a pearl’s authenticiety is to have it verified and certified by a qualified gemologist. For a fee they will be able to x-ray the pearls, showing any variations in density and identifying the nucleus to determine how the pearl was originally formed. To be worth paying the price you need to first be fairly sure that the pearl is genuine, but many imitation pearls look very real and it’s the only way to really be 100% sure without damaging the pearl.
