Whether it’s their romantic aura, their subtle beauty or simplistic style, you have decided it’s time to add a beautiful piece of pearl jewelry to your collection. Before running out to your favorite jeweler and snatching up the first thing you see, get informed about the investment you are about to make. Just like any other gemstone, there are quite a few things to know about pearls that can help you not only get the best deal, but the right pearl for you.

First, let me start by saying that there is no official grading system industry wide for pearls. There are however, 2 different systems that reputable pearl dealers hold themselves to. The first system is the AAA-A system, which allows jewelers to grade pearls. In this system, a grade of AAA means the pearl is of the highest quality. The pearl should have a very high luster and be practically (if not totally) flawless. If a pearl has an AA grade it should have a high luster, but might have slight defects. An A-grade is the lowest grading for a pearl. This type of pearl will likely have many flaws and lack luster.

The second system widely accepted by pearl dealers is the A-D system, sometimes known as the Tahitian system. This is the system often used to grade Tahitian or South Sea pearls in overseas markets. In this system, a grade of A means the pearl is of the highest quality with high luster and is virtually flawless. The grading goes down from there, with a B pearl having a high to medium luster and a few defects. A C-graded pearl will probably have over 50% defects on the surface, and will possess only a medium luster. Any pearl given a grade below D is not considered usable for jewelry.

Because these two grading systems are not industry-wide, it is important that you feel as though you can trust your jeweler. Ask them for the pearl grading in writing, any reputable dealer should provide this. This way, you have the pearl quality in words as opposed to simply the grade they felt was appropriate. The other thing to look for when grading a pearl is its nacre, or surface thickness. The thicker the nacre, the more durable the pearl will be over time. A good nacre begins at 0.5mm so keep this in mind and use it as a guide when choosing pearls.

When purchasing pearls, it is important to examine the surface carefully. A high-quality pearl will have a shiny, bright apperaance. A high-quality pearl should be lusturous enough for you to see your reflection in it. Lower quality pearls have milky or chalky characteristics. Also, check the surface of the pearl to make sure it is smooth and free of discoloration or other defects. The perfect pearl should be round, smooth and shiny.

The next thing to look for in a pearl is color. This is an area where personal taste can and should overtake what is valuable. Certain colors are rarer than others that occur in nature, but this should not be a determining factor. You should consider your personal taste and what compliments your skin tone when purchasing your pearls. That being said, pearls can range in color from black to white with every color in between. It shoudl be easy for you to find a high-quality pearl in the perfect color to suit your taste.

Another thing to be aware of when shopping for pearls is size and how that affects cost. Naturally, the larger the pearl, the more expensive it will be, depending of course on the other factors. Pearls are measured in millimeters and will depend on the type of pearl. Akoya pearls are the smallest and can range from 6mm to 8mm. Tahitian, South Sea and freshwater pearls tend to be a bit larger than the Akoya pearls. The average pearl sold today is about 7mm. There are also "seed pearls" which are tiny (less than 1mm, at times) that you can find at jewelry stores around the world.

So, before heading out to the stores do some research and be informed about the type of pearl you want to bring home with you. As a knowledgeable consumer, you will be able to get more for your money. In the end, you will feel better about your purchase, will most likely have made a better investment and will choose a piece of jewelry that you will love for years to come.

• Color Variations of Pearls